TakamatsuYashima
Distant View
Distant View
Yashima (“roof island”) is a towering volcanic plateau just east of central Takamatsu. As the name suggests, it was once an island, separated from Shikoku by a narrow channel, but landfill dating back to the 1600s filled in the waterway. Visitors can now walk, drive, or take a bus to the peak to enjoy scenic views of Takamatsu and the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. In the past, the location of Yashima made it a strategic site: fortifications on the plateau were first mentioned in the Nihon shoki (The Chronicles of Japan), completed in 720. Centuries later, in 1185, the Dan no Ura cove on the eastern side of Yashima was the site of a famous battle between the rival Taira and Minamoto samurai clans. The Battle of Yashima was won by the Minamoto, who went on to crush the Taira and later established the Kamakura shogunate, which ruled Japan from 1192 to 1333. Another site of historical interest on Yashima is Yashimaji Temple, the 84th temple on the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage. Said to have been founded in the eighth century, the temple is most notable for its hondo (main hall), a designated Important Cultural Property built in the Kamakura period (1185–1333).
Battle of Yashima
The Battle of Yashima was a decisive engagement in the closing stages of the Genpei war (1180–1185), in which the rival Taira and Minamoto samurai clans struggled for dominion over Japan. By 1185, the Taira had suffered repeated defeats and lost the capital of Kyoto to the Minamoto. The Taira then retreated to the fortified island of Yashima, where they had established a temporary palace for the six-year-old Emperor Antoku (1178–1185). Despite their previous losses, the Taira had more ships and manpower than their enemies, and were expecting a naval attack. They hid their fleet in a small cove on the eastern side of Yashima and planned to ambush the Minamoto.
Minamoto no Yoshitsune (1159–1189), the Minamoto commander, opted for an overland approach instead. He had fires lit along the coast, fooling the Taira into believing that a large force was about to attack them from behind. The Taira took to their ships, and the battle began. Led by the legendary Nasu no Yoichi, the Minamoto archers routed their opponents, forcing the Taira to abandon Yashima and flee across the Inland Sea to Shimonoseki, off the southern tip of Honshu. There they were ultimately defeated by the Minamoto, who went on to establish the Kamakura shogunate and rule Japan from 1192 to 1333.
Yashima: Dankorei Ridge
The Dankorei observation point overlooks Dan no Ura, a cove that in 1185 was the site of a storied battle between the rival Taira and Minamoto samurai clans. Dankorei literally means “the ridge on which people talk about the past together”—a name said to have been bestowed by a Buddhist nun who visited the ridge in 1897 and was told of its association with the Battle of Yashima. Visitors looking out over Dan no Ura from Dankorei can see several places that appear in stories about the famous engagement. These include the site of the temporary palace of Emperor Antoku (1178–1185), the six-year-old monarch whom the Taira forced to come with them to Yashima after losing Kyoto, the capital, to the Minamoto; Inori Iwa (“prayer rock”), where the Minamoto archers are said to have prayed for divine guidance; and Funakakushi, the small inlet in which the Taira hid their ships in anticipation of a Minamoto naval attack that never occurred. Across from Dan no Ura stands Mt. Goken (literally, “five swords”), a 375-meter mountain that used to have five sharp peaks. These sword-like features collapsed in a 1707 earthquake, leaving the summit rather less spiky.
Yashima: Shishi no Reigan
The Shishi no Reigan (“lion’s head ridge”) observation point affords visitors some of the most impressive views on Yashima. Below the steep ridge lies the port of Takamatsu, where ferries depart for the islands in the Seto Inland Sea, while the city itself extends inland, past the historic Ritsurin Garden and toward the horizon. Across from Shishi no Reigan, beyond the opposite edge of the city, towers the lush Goshikidai Plateau, while the Seto Ohashi Bridge is visible in the distance. Looking out toward the sea, visitors can spot the twin islands of Megijima and Ogijima, and beyond them the “art island” of Naoshima. The views are particularly striking at dusk, when the setting sun paints the panoramic scenery in dramatic shades, and after dark, when the lights of the city and the islands can be seen twinkling below.
Shishi no Reigan gets its name from a large rock beneath the cliff. Said to resemble the head of a roaring lion, this rock appears in a well-known local legend. In the story, the Buddhist priest Kukai (774–835), considered the originator of the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage, sought to build the main hall of nearby Yashimaji Temple in a single day—an impossible undertaking for the average person. Kukai, however, decided to extend the length of the day itself: standing on the “lion rock,” he used a hand fan to wave at the setting sun, imploring it to stay above the horizon until the temple hall could be completed.
Historic site, natural monument
From JR Yashima Station: 18-minute bus ride to "Yashima Sanjo" bus stop; From Kotoden-Yashima Station: 10-minute bus ride to “Yashima Sanjo” bus stop
(Yashima Sanjo Visitor Parking Lot) 6:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. *6:30 a.m. to 0:00 a.m. on December 31, 0:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. on January 1
Open all year round
(Parking fee) 300 yen for cars, 200 yen for motorcycles, 1,200 yen for buses